Contrary to popular belief, The Tye-Dyed Iguana does not actually sell Green Iguanas.  The reaction we get to this policy varies greatly.  Those of us in the industry understand completely the mentality behind our Green Iguana policy.  Many people, however, are not aware of the larger problem with the sale of Green Iguanas.

Green Iguanas are the #1 most abused and neglected reptile in our industry.  This is due to the overwhelming large amount of false care information in circulation.  The pet shops are also to blame in this situation.  Pet shops must know what they sell, and often they do not.  It’s hard to stop the spread of misinformation when a store front is helping to spread it.

We found ourselves in a situation where people thought we were lying to them when we told them how to properly care for a Green Iguana.  The common mentality is “I did it this way for years, it must be correct.”  Our response to this statement is one word:  Asbestos.  Look how long we installed asbestos in people’s homes until one day we realized it causes cancer.  Or better yet, from 1898 – 1910, heroin was prescribed as a cough suppresant.  Long story short, just because we did it for years, doesn’t mean it’s right.

Instead of selling Green Iguanas, we have opted to adopt them out.  You can add yourself to our Myspace and Facebook pages.  We do most of our adopting through those websites.

We need to take everything we used to do for iguana care and throw it out the window.  There have been amazing advancements in captive reptile husbandry.  We now know how to take care of these amazing creatures.  Here’s a little overview of some basic care techniques.

Basic Caging Requirements
The cage dimensions should ideally be twice the animals length in each direction.  That means a hatchling iguana would need a cage roughly 2 foot cubed, or 2ft x 2ft x 2ft.  10, 20, and 30 Gallon tanks are never sufficient.  An adult iguana will need a cage 12-14 feet cubed, or a bedroom.  This is not an exaggeration.  Green Iguanas are very large arboreal (tree dwelling) lizards.  In order for them to maintain their natural behaviors, they need to be able to move freely in all directions.

Basic Lighting Requirements
Green Iguanas are a diurnal species.  This means they are awake during the day.  As a result, Green Iguanas need access to a heat source, a UVA source, and a UVB source.  Luckily, all standard heat bulbs emit UVA.  They do not, however, emit UVB.  This is a common misconception, again largely due to misinformation.  UVB bulbs will specifically say UVB on them.  Plant bulbs and fish bulbs are not the same thing.  They emit very low levels of UVB, not what’s needed by the iguanas body.

UVB bulbs come in three strengths: 2.0, 5.0, and 10.0.  These strengths directly correlate with the intensity of the UVB rays.  See the chart below.

* Reptiles can get to much UVB just like humans.  Be sure to pay attention to the minimum distances.  For instance if you put a 10.0 on a Veiled Chameleon, this would be to powerful of a bulb for a tree dweller.

You can purchase UVB bulbs here.

Basic Diet Requirements
No lettuce of any kind.  Sure they like to eat it, but Americans also like to eat McDonalds.  It doesn’t mean you should eat it every day.  Lettuce lacks almost all nutritional value.  It’s primarily water and cellulose.  A green iguana’s diet should be composed primarily of dark leafy greens such as collard greens, mustard greens, and turnip greens.  See the chart below.

Pelleted diets can be very convenient for busy lifestyles, but the formula is far from natural.  The number one ingredients in pelleted foods is corn or soy.  Neither of these exist in the canopies of Central America.  Although the iguana may eat it, it’s not an optimal diet.  They make a great supplement to a balanced diet.

Basic Heating Requirements
Green Iguanas need a basking hot spot of about 90 degrees.  This can fluctuate 5 degrees in either direction.  The cool end of the enclosure to be room temperature.  Night time heating is not neccessary unless the animal is dropping below 65 degrees.  At that point a night time heat source is required.

You can purchase heat bulbs here.

The Burmese Brown Tortoise, sometimes known as the Burmese Mountain Tortoise, Manouria Brown Tortoise, or Six Legged Tortoise is the largest Asiatic land tortoise.

The Burmese Brown Tortoise is native to the mountainous regions of Southeast Asia. In the daytime they may soak in shallow water to avoid over-heating. This is a shy species, and therefore not much information is available about their behavior in the wild. Like many other tortoises, the Burmese Brown Tortoise is most likely active in the morning and evening hours, when it is not very hot. While the exact diet of the Burmese Brown Tortoise is unknown, it is likely that they feed primarily on vegetation, such as succulents, grasses and fruits in the wild. In captivity they do well on a diet of green vegetables and fruits, though some animal protein should be added to their diet on a regular basis to ensure good health. This tortoise is not very common in captivity. This may be due to the fact that they are not imported as often as other species, and the imported specimens may be difficult to care for and acclimate to life in captivity.

There are two subspecies of Burmese Brown Tortoise. This section describes the nominate species (Manouria emys emys) which is the smaller of the two. The average mature Burmese Brown Tortoise’s carapace length will rarely exceed 40 centimeters in length. Mature individuals usually do not exceed 20 kilograms in weight. In contrast, the other subspecies (Manouria emys phayrei) has been recorded as having carapace lengths as large as 60 centimeters and weighing as much as 37 kilograms. Manouria emys phayrei, has a flatter carapace than that of the nominate form. The higher dome of Manouria emys emys may be used to help distinguish it from M. e. phayrei. As their common name suggests, Burmese Brown Tortoises are usually brown in color with very few markings. Some individuals may be darker, with coloration closer to black. Adult Burmese Brown Tortoises are sometimes called “Six-Legged Tortoises” because their thighs have large, tubercular scales. Hatchling Burmese Brown Tortoises average between six and 6.6 centimeters (2.4 to 2.6 Inches) and weigh between 47 and 55 grams (1.6 to 1.9 ounces). The babies are usually grayish brown or brown and their plastrons are darker in color. It has been reported that the Burmese Brown Tortoise has eyes that protrude more than those belonging to desert tortoises.

The Burmese Brown Tortoise can be found in parts of Southeast Asia, including Myanmar, Assam, Thailand, Sumatra, the Malay Peninsula and Borneo. This species was first recorded in 1844 by Schelgel and Muller. Initially it was classified as ‘Testudo emys’, but since then, their taxonomy has been altered. Today they are classified by the genus ‘Manouria’ which includes the largest Asiatic land tortoises. The Burmese Brown Tortoise is classified by the species name ‘emys’ and is further broken down into two subspecies, ‘e. emys’ and ‘e. phayrei’. In 1979 Wirot classified ‘ e. phayrei’ as ‘Geochelone nutapundi’ and they are best known under this taxonomy.

Unlike some tortoises the Burmese Brown does not tolerate overly high heat. They do best when kept anywhere from 15 to 20 degrees Celsius, though they have been known to continue feeding in temperatures as low as 10 degrees Celsius. The rain forest and mountainous humidity in their native environment may account for the need for lower temperatures than desert species and a need for high humidity. It is important that captive individuals have plenty of water to soak in. If you live in an area where outdoor maintenance is possible, this is preferred since this species thrives in the rain. This species is not known to hibernate, so it will need to kept in a heated enclosure if temperatures get too low.

The Burmese Brown Tortoise may be prone to flagellate infections, stomatitis and pneumonia. Imported individuals generally have a difficult time acclimating to captivity and are more likely to have diseases and parasites.

The Burmese Brown Tortoise has unique reproductive habits in the wild. They lay their eggs in a mound nest that is built by the female. The mound is built by “back-sweeping”: the tortoise sweeps the litter towards the mound backwards, with her back facing the mound. The Burmese Brown Tortoise can lay the largest number of eggs per clutch of any tortoise. The maximum number per clutch is fifty one eggs, although most clutches average closer to forty. After laying her eggs, the female guards the nest for two or three days. The eggs will hatch after between 63 and 68 days at 84 degrees Fahrenheit (29 Celsius).

In captivity it has been reported that higher incubation temperatures may cause the eggs to become non-viable.

Care sheet provided by Centralpets.com

Animal Description:

The Skunk Gecko is characterized by its white stripe running down its back. These geckos make entertaining pets for many people.

Nocturnal animals, Skunk Geckos tend to be somewhat less aggressive than their close relatives, the Tokay Geckos. Skunk Geckos are good climbers, and will scale walls and climb plants with apparent ease. They can be kept in groups of one male and one or multiple females. Because they have a tendency to bite, Skunk Geckos may not be a good choice if you’re looking for a handleable lizard.

By maturity, Skunk Geckos usually reach between nine and ten inches in length. Skunk Geckos have golden eyes. They range in color from tan to darker brown or even green. A white stripe runs down each side of the head, and these lines connect when they reach the Skunk Geckos neck, merging into a single line that runs down the back all the way to the base of the tail. After it reaches the tail, the white line breaks up into several white bands. Males are somewhat larger that females. Males also usually have visible swelling around the tail because of two hemipenes. When observing a male Tokay Gecko, one can see postanal tubercules, as well as preanal and femoral pores.

Native to Indonesia and Australia, Skunk Geckos are found on a variety of island archipelagos and warm mainland areas. Although they are in the same family as Tokay Geckos, they tend to have a slighter build and less aggressive tendencies. They are sometimes called White Lined Tokays, and are also known as Indonesian Skunk Geckos or just Skunk Geckos.

Specific Care Information:

Generally, two Skunk Geckos can be kept in a 10 or 20-gallon terrarium. Males should not be kept together. Because they love to climb, this terrarium should be vertically oriented and should also have a lid to help prevent escape. A partial screen will provide sufficient ventilation. Plenty of hiding places should be provided. Many enjoy non-toxic green plants like rubber trees, snake plants, and dracaena in their enclosures. These allow for hiding and climbing activities in addition to helping maintain humidity. Humidity should remain between 65 and 70 percent. Bark chips, plastic grass, or newspaper all make good substrates. A water dish should be provided. The diet may have its basis formed by crickets and similar sized insects, with waxworms or mealworms as an occasional treat. Some people feed Skunk Geckos daily, while others feed them every few days. Generally, a healthy Skunk Gecko eats between up to 40 and 50 crickets weekly. Many people add calcium and multivitamin supplements to the crickets food prior to feeding. Daytime temperatures for Skunk Geckos should remain between 82 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, with a nighttime drop into the low 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Breeding and Propagation:

Generally, Skunk Geckos lay two hard-shelled eggs that are glued to some surface in the enclosure. Some females may be protective of their eggs. Do not attempt to remove the eggs from the surface that they are attached to. There is much dispute as to the incubation period of these eggs, with some sources citing 65 to 100 days and others claiming between 3 and 6 months.

Care sheet provided by centralpets.com

Also known as the “Tanzanian Tailless Whip Scorpion,” the Tanzanian Giant Whip Scorpion is a suitable beginner’s scorpion because of their gentle disposition, yet they are also attractive to experienced owners because they are beautiful and rare.

Tanzanian Giant Whip Scorpions can be skittish, and they also have the ability to move very fast! They are generally docile, but handling them is not recommended, even though they do not possess toxic venom, they will occasionally pinch and because they are fast moving they have been known to escape their owners when held. It is interesting to watch them move, they walk sideways rather than frontward, in a way that much resembles a crab. Adults should be housed in a tank that is at least ten to fifteen gallons. It is important to make sure the tank is both wide and tall to prevent escapes! Keep the temperature around 80 degrees Fahrenheit and the humidity in between 75 to 80%. For substrate, use one to two inches of peat moss, or potting soil and decorate their area with logs or wood, and cork bark. They should have somewhere to hide (within the tank, of course!) and room to climb. They do well on a diet of insects including crickets.

At maturity, the Tanzanian Giant Whip Scorpion will grow to an amazing length of seven and a half inches with legs spread. They do not have tails (hence the nickname). For defense, they will pinch, although they rarely feel the need.

Tanzanian Giant Whip Scorpions can be found in the wild of Tanzania and Kenya.

Care Sheet provided by Centralpets.com

Care Sheet Provided by Centralpets.com

Perhaps you have heard stories of flying dragons. These stories find a bit of reality, but also more myths, in the Flying Lizard. Flying Lizards, or Flying Dragons, do not really fly; rather, they jump from trees and glide. These interesting lizards are also known as Flying Dracos and may be kept as pets.

In the wild, the Flying Dragon will generally claim a territory. Usually, males will mark two or three tree as their own, and one to three female Flying Dragons will live in each tree. When the male Flying Dragon meets another animal, he may extend his dewlap partially or fully, extend his wings partially or fully, perform a combination of dewlap or wing extension, or bob his body up and down. If he meets a female, he may circle her. Extending the wings and dewlap makes the Flying Dragon appear larger, and he will usually exhibit such behavior if he feels threatened. Flying Dragons eat insects. They catch such prey by sitting under a tree until an insect passes by, and then they eat it. In captivity, Flying Dragons will do well when fed on worms, flies, crickets, wax worms, or ants. In order to move from one place to another, Flying Dragons will spread the skin flaps along their abdomens and glide out of trees or from other high areas. They never glide when it is raining or when it is windy. When the Flying Dragon is about to take off, it will point its head toward the ground. Usually, Flying Dragons are diurnal and hide in the late morning and early afternoon to avoid the most intense sunlight of the day. In captivity, they will need a well-lit terrarium with hiding places. These lizards will best thrive in large enclosures containing well-established plants. Their terrarium should be tall, as the Flying Dragon is arboreal, and at least 25 gallons in size. Although these lizards are very lovely, especially in “flight”, it is probably best not to handle them too much. They are a bit shy and can become stressed easily.

Flying Dragons have low, long bodies. They have flaps of skin along the ribs, which can be extended into “wings” by the lizard elongating its ribs. They have a dewlap, or gular flap, which can also be extended. Generally, Flying Dragons grow to a little less than 12 inches in length. Although females are usually larger than males, their dewlaps are a bit smaller. In color, Flying Dragons are brown and have bluish coloration on the undersides of their wings and a yellow colored dewlap. Females tend to have bluish dewlaps and yellow coloring on the wings’ undersides. Their heads are blunted and fairly short, and each leg has five clawed toes.

The Flying Dragons are difficult to catch for the pet trade because they are so fast and agile by adulthood. Flying Lizards are native to the southwest tropical forests of Asia and India, including Borneo and the Philippine Islands.

Specific Care Information:

Flying Dragons need a humidity level over 75 percent. Their daytime temperature should remain between 80 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit with a ten-degree nighttime drop. The basking spot should be between 90 and 95 degrees. You can feed your Flying Dragon mealworms and crickets, dusted with a vitamin supplement, several times a week. They should always have a bowl of water available to them, and they appreciate a daily misting.

Breeding and Propagation:

In the wild, Flying Dragons probably mate between December and January. The courtship involves male Flying Dragons circling the females while displaying their extended gular flaps and wings in addition to bobbing their bodies up and down. Eggs are laid in a nest that the female creates by digging a small hole in the ground with her head. Usually, a clutch contains five eggs and the female will tamp the ground back over the completed nest with her head. The female Flying Dragon guards her nest for about 24 hours, and then abandons it. The eggs will need about 32 days to incubate and miniature versions of adult Flying Dragons will emerge.

Care sheet provided by centralpets.com

Some people value the poisonous Colorado River Toad for its powerful toxin. Unfortunately, this may contribute to the toad’s endangerment.

Colorado River Toads are native to arid desert areas near washes, dry grasslands, and woodlands. They are most often seen during the rains of March and July, and are semi-aquatic. Colorado River Toads often live near large streams, although they have also been frequently found near human-made waterways like canals, or near smaller springs or large rain puddles. These toads eat insects like scorpions, spiders, snails, and centipedes, although it has been known to eat small lizards, mice, or other small amphibians. Where larger insects are not available, Colorado River Toads may eat beetles, termites, or ants. Generally nocturnal, Colorado River Toads use the burrows of other animals to hide in. They may also take shelter under human-made structures like water troughs. When hot daytime temperatures have receded, Colorado River Toads generally make their way toward wet areas, where they congregate.

Growing to about 7.5 inches, Colorado River Toads have pale orange warts on their hind legs and other parts of their body. Usually, about three white colored warts are located near the mouth. The rest of the toad has leathery olive green to dark brown skin. Generally, the underside of the toad is a cream color. They are also characterized by the elongated shape of their parotid glands, and by their cranial crests. Parotid glands are located both on the toad’s broad head and on the limbs. Colorado River Toads secrete a very poisonous toxin that causes powerful hallucinations when ingested and in large amounts may even be able to kill a human. This toxin is known as bufotenine. This can be a major problem for pet dogs in areas where these toads live. It is not uncommon for these toads to wander into yards. Curious dogs will often mouth the toads and this can kill the dog if they are not treated immediately. Flushing out the dog’s mouth with water has been reported to help if this happens. It is recommended that you call your vet if this occurs.

Also known as Sonoran Desert Toads, Colorado River Toads are found throughout the Sonoran Desert. Native to southern California and Arizona in the United States of America, they range down through North America into Sinaloa, Mexico.

Specific Care Information:
In captivity, you should have both land and water areas available to the Colorado River Toad. These toads may be fed insects and pinkie mice.

Breeding and Propagation:
Colorado River Toads require some wet area to breed in. Most often, this is a large, permanent stream, although they have been known to use rain created ponds or human- made waterways like canals. Usually, the onset of warm spring rains stimulates Colorado River Toads to breed. They will congregate near breeding areas and males will call to females. Up to 200 males have been observed in the same area. Generally, between 7,500 and 8,000 eggs will be laid by the female.

Care Sheet provided by centralpets.com